Boat Trailer Wiring for Mackay Boat Ramps

This guide is for Mackay boaties who tow to the river, harbour and beach ramps between Seaforth and Sarina. It explains why big tides and salt water are so hard on trailer lights here, how to set up wiring that lasts, and what Queensland's rules say about trailer lights and brakes.

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Big tides mean more time in the water

Mackay has some of the largest tides on the Queensland coast. Maritime Safety Queensland lists the highest astronomical tide at Mackay Outer Harbour as 6.62 metres, and at nearby Hay Point as 7.18 metres. Further north, Townsville's figure is 4.22 metres. You can see the numbers for yourself in the MSQ highest tides list.

For your trailer, a big range means the water's edge moves a long way during a session. Launch near the top of the tide and come back near the bottom, and you may be backing much further down the ramp than you planned. That puts the tail lights, the harness and the hubs under salt water for longer, often while you're rushing to beat the tide.

Mackay's ramps and your wiring

Mackay Regional Council keeps a list of local boat ramps. It's worth a look before you try a new spot. Some of the ramps it lists:

• River Street in town, on the Pioneer River, and the small craft ramp at Mackay Marina.
• Slade Point (Seagull Street), close to the city's northern suburbs.
• Bucasia Beach, Eimeo Creek at Bucasia, Eimeo (Sunset Boulevard) and Shoal Point Beach on the northern beaches.
• Victor Creek and Constant Creek at Seaforth, further north.
• Grasstree Beach and Sarina Beach (Perpetual Point) to the south.
• Freshwater ramps at Kinchant, Teemburra and Eungella dams.

What salt, sand and mud do to trailer lights

A traditional globe-type trailer lamp gets hot on the drive to the ramp. Back it into cool salt water and the glass can crack, then water sits inside the housing and eats the globe holder. Sand and estuary mud make it worse, because they hold salt against the metal long after you've left the ramp.

Sealed LED lamps sold as submersible are the usual answer for boat trailers. There's no filament to break, they draw less current, and quality units are potted so water can't pool inside. They aren't magic, though. Most failures on LED trailers happen at the joins, the earth and the plug, not inside the lamp itself.

Freshwater dam launches are gentler on the metal, but water still finds its way into a cracked lens or a loose join. Treat a dam trailer the same way as a saltwater one.

Setting up wiring that lasts

Think about where the water line sits when the trailer is on the ramp, and keep as much of the wiring above it as you can. Run the harness inside the drawbar or along the top of the frame, clear of rollers, skids and the winch strap. Every join is a place for corrosion to start, so use as few as possible.

Where a join can't be avoided, use adhesive-lined heat shrink connectors, properly crimped and heated until the glue shows at each end. Tape and twisted wire won't last. Our guide on crimping wire connectors shows how to get a solid crimp.

• Use tinned cable if you're rewiring, as it resists corrosion travelling up the strands.
• Give each lamp its own earth wire back to the plug rather than relying on the frame.
• Put any junction near the front of the trailer, not down by the lights.
• Add a drip loop before connectors so water runs away from them.

Plug habits at the ramp

Unplug the trailer before the lights go into the water and plug it back in once you're out. With the plug connected, the tail lights are usually on and the circuits are live. Unplugged, the lamps are cold and dead when they get wet, which cuts down on cracked lenses and corrosion.

Don't let the plug drag on the ramp or drop into wet sand while it's disconnected. A plug holder on the drawbar or a simple cover keeps it clean. Most boat trailers use a 7-pin flat plug, and our guide to wiring a 7-pin trailer plug covers the pin layout if yours needs replacing.

Queensland rules on trailer lights and brakes

Your trailer's lights must all work, and the lights, number plate and registration label must not be blocked by the boat, an outboard or a bike rack. Transport and Main Roads' Safe towing guide sets out the brake rules based on gross trailer mass (GTM). In summary: a single-axle trailer up to 750 kg GTM doesn't need brakes. Above that, a trailer up to 2000 kg GTM needs brakes on at least one axle, and override brakes are allowed. Over 2000 kg GTM, brakes must work on all wheels, be operable from the driver's seat and apply automatically if the trailer breaks away, staying on for at least 15 minutes.

Many boat trailers use hydraulic override brakes, partly because they cope with dunking better than electric drum brakes. Whatever you have, salt is hard on brake parts, so include them in your rinse. Rules and guides are updated from time to time, so check the current requirements with TMR before you rely on this summary.

After the ramp

Once you're home, hose the trailer down with fresh water, including the lamps, the plug, the drawbar and the brake components. Let the plug dry before you store it. Every few trips, spray the plug pins with contact cleaner and then a light water-displacing protectant.

Before each trip, do a light check with a helper: tails, brakes, both indicators and the number plate light. If something has dropped out, our guide on why trailer lights stop working walks through the usual suspects. If the whole harness is green with corrosion, a rewire with sealed LEDs is often the better fix. Auto electricians across Mackay and out to Bucasia see plenty of boat trailers.

Parts for this job

Order quality parts online from Ozautoelectrics, dispatched Australia-wide.

Get it done: get a quoteDo it yourself: shop submersible LED trailer lights

Get it done: get a quoteDo it yourself: shop 7-pin flat trailer plugs

Get it done: get a quoteDo it yourself: shop heat shrink connectors

Get it done: get a quoteDo it yourself: shop trailer cables

Questions Mackay drivers ask

Why do my trailer lights fail after launching at Mackay ramps?

Usually salt water has got into a join, a lamp or the plug. Mackay's big tides can mean backing further into the water than you expect, so the rear of the trailer spends longer submerged. When the wiring is wet you get a short or poor connection, and it may come good as it dries. Check the earths first, then look for green or white corrosion in the plug.

Does my boat trailer need brakes in Queensland?

It depends on the gross trailer mass. Under TMR's Safe towing guide, a single-axle trailer up to 750 kg GTM doesn't need brakes, a trailer up to 2000 kg GTM needs brakes on at least one axle, and heavier trailers need brakes on all wheels with breakaway protection. Check the current rules with Transport and Main Roads before you buy or modify a trailer.

Should I unplug the trailer before backing down the ramp?

Yes. Unplugging before the lights go under means the lamps are cold and the circuits are dead when they meet the water, which reduces cracked lenses and corrosion. Keep the plug off the ramp and out of wet sand while it's disconnected. Plug it back in once you've pulled out, then check every light before you head home.

Are freshwater dam ramps easier on trailer wiring?

Freshwater is less corrosive than salt water, so wiring used only at dams like Kinchant or Teemburra tends to last longer. Water still gets into cracked lenses, loose joins and plugs, though, and mud can hold moisture against connections. Use sealed lamps and sealed joins either way, and give the trailer a rinse and a light check after each trip.

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